Want the true Asian adventure holiday? Go to Cambodia
Hello everyone,
My travels throughout Asia have covered the spectrum of environments: developed and less developed societies, modern and traditional cities, spotless and filthy neighborhoods, kind and aggressive communities. Cambodia contains aspects of each these extremes. The country is a truly raw place. For those of you who want to have an authentic Asian experience, one void of excess tourism, Cambodia is among the few places left that can fulfill your wish. Three places are a must.
The destination that defines Cambodia is the city of Siem Reap and the surrounding temples. You will need to get a visa upon entry, before you pass customs. It is important to know that Cambodians like to joke around. Unfortunately, when you couple dry humor with imperfect English, you will likely feel more threatened than amused. Let me tell you, this miscommunication at immigration will spawn a bead or two of sweat. Once away from the authorities you will be able to roll with it.
Siem Reap is a very small town, nestled along a river, near a large fresh water lake. The bridges that cross the water and the architecture of the buildings reflect a French colonial presence. Combine this look with the lushness of a tropical environment and the neglect of a corrupt governmental system, and the net impression of the setting resembles the American Cajun south. Buried within the maze of small roads are countless cute and comfortable inns that offer surprising amenities at rock bottom prices. The other extreme is also available – Hotel Costes type establishments with unique Khmer touches (see - www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com). Many hotels are situated around the back-packer area, known as Pub St . Here you will find great little galleries, notably of photographers, and restaurants. As far as the local cuisine is concerned, Khmer food is actually not that spectacular. I was quite surprised at this because both neighbors, Thailand and Vietnam , have an extraordinary food culture.
The sole reason that one visits Siem Reap is to see the plethora of temples that are speckled around the outskirts of the city. The crown jewel is Angkor Wat, whose picture is the center piece of the Cambodian flag. The site is a photographer’s dream, especially during sun rise or sun set. The former grandness of the Khmer Empire is clearly apparent, as is the richness of the Khmer culture. Beyond Angkor Wat are other famous temples such as Ta Prohm and Bayon. Ta Prohm is a magical place. The jungle has regained its ownership of the land on which the temple was built. Large trees stand firmly on top of ancient ruins, spreading their roots throughout the hallways and rooms of the temple, like a mythological squid engulfing a navy vessel (see- www.flickr.com/photos /peterstuckings/sets/72057594073027419/ ). Bayon is equally breathtaking. This temple is renowned for its Buddhist inspired head sculptures. Much like the Mona Lisa, the eyes of the various heads follow you as you view them from different angles. As a photographer, I found this subject matter incredibly powerful and eerie. Each temple is impressive in its own way. Imagine what the French discovers felt when they stumbled upon these ruins many years ago. Colossal, architecturally advanced, intricately designed, and deep in the jungle - A true Indiana Jones experience.
However, you can easily get “templed out”. One rock structure blends into the next. At this point, Siem Reap offers many cultural diversions. To visit them, you have a variety of travel options: bicycle, motorbike, tuk-tuk, and car. By chance, I stumbled on a driver that was cop. He was a great guy, very timid, unassuming, and a sly womanizer. He also liked to sip a beer or two while driving me around, which worried me before I realized that he was a 6 year police veteran… well, even then it worried me. He was able to find all the bizarre sites as well as off-the-beaten-track nightlife spots. There are three places that I would recommend. The first is the landmine museum. Owned by a former Khmer military officer, the museum resembles more like the wrecking yard from Sanford and Son than a display of Cambodia’s recent history. The employees are all landmine victims. You will be escorted around the grounds, explained the different types of explosives, and shown stories related to their affect on Cambodian life – very humbling. The second place is little hut, tucked away on the grounds of a local pagoda, where you can find hand made shadow puppets. The artist, an older lady, is curious and full of life. Her energy and unique personality is reflected in the pieces she creates – I had to buy a pair. The final place to see is the stretch of road that connects the city of Siem Reap with the harbor on the banks of Tonle Sap , one of the biggest lakes in South East Asia. The road follows a river. On the banks of the river are countless huts from Vietnamese immigrants. The poverty is noteworthy. However, the community feel, the homeliness of the shoddy wooden huts, the cuteness of the primitive bridges linking both sides of the river, is emotionally riveting and photographically stimulating. It really feels authentic.
The second main destination in Cambodia is the capital Phnom Penh. To reach PP from Siem Reap, the best way to travel is by speed boat on lake Tonle Sap. However, beware of sun burn. The deck is very tempting and the breeze is deceptively cool. Half of the trip is on open water, the other half is along a river. The latter half is what makes the trip worthwhile; Cambodian coastal life with its floating villages, unique fishing boats, and inviting locals. The journey ends in the heart of Phnom Penh on the banks of the Tonle Sap River. Like many other South East Asian destinations, you are swarmed with local tuk-tuk drivers upon arrival. It’s good to read up on what is a fair fare. The Lonely Planet came in handy. Once en-route to my hotel I was able to absorb the cityscape. Much like Saigon, the colonial influence on this large city is very apparent: Ornate hotel buildings, Parisian-like walkways accessorized with intimate street lamps and benches, romantic riverside paths beautifully landscaped. The major difference between PP and Saigon is that there seems to have been little maintenance, let alone restoration, to the buildings. You truly feel transported to a past time. Here lies part of the magic of Cambodia. The history is almost alive. Garbage is everywhere, but it seems to help protect the old city from contemporary urban planning.
Many hotels line the river. This is where the action takes place. I naturally had to stay in one of the hotels. By chance, I stumbled on a pure gem – the Bougainvillier Hotel. I chose to stay in their best room, which was situated on the top floor. It had its own rooftop garden and an open-air bathroom. The actual sleeping area was a large open concept room with angled walls and a wooden canopy bed. I felt like a king, but paid what a mere jester could afford. I could also view the river banks from my room. At night, the boardwalk lights up, and a great night life emerges. Café after café fill the air with laughter, joyful conversation, and dated music. The seediness of the city is not hidden. Working women are plainly seen and mix with all types of crowds. While I saw tourist families, the city does not feel like it is suited for them. It’s simply too raw.
There are many interesting places to seek out in Phnom Penh . The expat community is NGO driven but has a predominantly bohemian feel. As such, there are many quaint arts and crafts shops, book stores, and markets. The two main tourist spots are the famous Khmer Rouge S-21 prison and the grounds where the prisoners were executed – The Killing Fields. This is worth taking a day to take in. Pol Pot’s regime ended around 1978. This was the last year that the prison was active. Therefore, it is truly recent history. The building is that of a school that the Khmer Rouge turned into a prison. It is not an old building, so it feels like a school that you may have gone to. Then you are told the facts: Over 17,000 prisoners came through this place, only 7 survived. On top of this information, you see remnants of the torture tools, shackles, beds, and blood stains. Like the closeness you feel to history when traveling through the city, you feel the closeness of the genocide when you walk through the prison. It is really harsh.
The final leg of my journey was to the ocean, at Sihanoukville. A bus will take you from Phnom Penh to the shore in just over 4 hours. The trip is uneventful. You arrive at a huge parking lot in the middle of the city and wonder whether there truly is water nearby or the travel books “pulled one over on you”. However, a five minute motorcycle ride brings you to a beach scene that is very Hippie inspired. This is not a beach for the neat and tidy travelers, those that frequent Thailand. This is a beach for the adventurer. The sand is fine and white but the beach is not groomed. Garbage is as apparent along the watery strip as it is along the moped filled roads of Phnom Penh. However, the back-packer lifestyle has a charm and you easily meet folks from all around the world. The location is gaining notoriety. While I was there, all the hostels and hotels were fully booked. I am guessing that within five years, the stature and popularity of the beaches in Sihanoukville will rival famous ones found in Thailand. Therefore, I suggest that you head there soon if you want to experience the “roughness”.
Raw, rough, that’s what makes Cambodia so authentic. I loved it.
Leave a Reply