Cuba: Canada’s tropical secret
Hello everyone,
I have been back in Toronto for just over 6 months which has allowed me to reacclimatize myself to true “Canadianisms”. For starters we have the “cuisine”, such as hearty Poutine or greasy breakfasts with Peameal beacon. As soon as the winter hit, I was reminded that these types of heavy foods are a necessity to stay warm in this disturbingly cold environment. Then we have the flag-bearing travelers. During the summer I met several back-packers who proudly spoke of their journeys throughout Europe and the warm welcome that they received due, according to them, in great part to them being identified as Canadians. They probably didn’t realize that their ghostly complexion was also a bit of a giveaway. Finally, I have been reintroduced to hockey fanaticism. The love for the game is so severe above the 49 th Parallel that droves of people will religiously pour into a packed arena to watch a losing and overpaid team. Why Torontonians continue to support the Leafs is beyond me. However, the purpose of this write-up is not to talk about Canadian secrets found in the Great White North. I want to talk about Canada’s tropical secret – Cuba .
Cuba is one of Canadians’ favored sun destinations. Flights from multiple airlines leave daily from big city airports. Ads on billboards for Cuban resorts and package deals pepper Canadian city skylines. Many of my friends have visited this wonderful country and therefore when the menacing Canadian Winter appeared in October, I decided that I would see what this “Cuban craze” was all about. According to travel tours, Canadians make up the largest percentage of visitors to Cuba. I quickly realized why: heat, compassion, culture, variety, and above all, it’s a place that the Canadians call truly call theirs.
We landed in Varadero in the early evening and were greeted by a wall of comforting heat. The winter shivers were quickly soothed by an all-encompassing warm blanket of tropical air. Crazy tourists immediately shed most of their clothes to reveal pasty shades of white skin tones that only Canadians, and perhaps the occasional Brit, can somehow create. The sight was comedic. If any of the tour buses should burn out their headlights, they need only stick two shirtless Canadians on the front of the bus and the road would be easily lit up. But I don’t want to talk about the biological benefits of the Canuck complexion, I want to talk about the Cuban heat. The sun seemed to have a liking for this large island. She brightly sprayed the beach with her rays, bronzing our skin, warming our hearts, and lightening our moods. The environment was equally in harmony with the sun. The ocean sparkled in a light, somewhat turquoise, blue and the trees and bushes proudly displayed a vibrant green. As you navigate through this wonderful warmth you cannot help but appreciate your environment and those around you. I believe that that Cubans have long recognized the positive energy that their cherished sun offers. They seem to show their appreciation to the bright lady in the sky by extending personal warmth to their fellow man (and woman) in a way that few nationalities do.
A kinder people than the Cubans you will rarely find. You are confronted with their genuine warmth almost from the point you walk off the plane. I recall being greeted with a tray of Crystal beer as we got on to the bus that would take us to our resort… Wait a minute. I think I’ve figured something out! Perhaps the laid back attitude of visitors to the island is a result of a carefully executed plan of partial sedation caused by a regular infusion of alcohol. Those tricky &^%# !!! Joking aside, I was taken back by how lovely the people were. For a people who are generally quite poor, their attitude to the world around them was inspiring. You may think that this is due to the fact that they want our money. Sure, the service industry is important and therefore highly developed. Nonetheless, I have visited many countries with equally vital tourist industries and the people did not have the Cuban disposition. A case in point was a server at our resort. His name was Sergio. His job was to walk along the beach and bring guests drinks. As we were in an all-inclusive resort, he was not selling drinks which meant that tips were not to be expected. Regardless, he was always covering the entire beach at a healthy pace and never once failed to greet you without an ear-to-ear smile and jovial conversation. We could not help but feel upbeat after seeing Sergio. However, Cuba has many Sergios. Whether it was our tour guide to Havana, our maid at the hotel, the bartender at our local watering hole, our cab drivers, or the like, a sweet authenticity prevailed. Where were all the Tony Montanas? I guess the Sergios asked them to move to Miami!
It is actually quite interesting that a poor and somewhat isolated Caribbean island has the depth of history and global political attention that Cuba has. The cultural richness found in Cuba is noteworthy. Unfortunately, we were not able to see much because Cuba is quite a large island, larger (I think) than Florida. Therefore, we only visited Varadero and its surrounding towns, and Havana . I would have loved to visit Vinales with its spectacular limestone cliffs, lush green tobacco fields, and expansive network of caves. However, the ride from Varadero would have been around 5 hours. A bit much for a day trip! Oh well, next time. And yes, Cuba definitely deserves more than a week. A country that almost brought the world to nuclear war certainly has something to say. But well before The Cuban Missile Crisis, this island has been at the center of much international attention. Just a look at the faces of the Cubans and one immediately notices the influence of the Spanish, Dutch, English, Africans (slaves), and Chinese. Yes, all these nationalities have settled in Cuba at some point, diversifying the makeup of the Cuban people. Add the criminal (and financial) element of the mafia, the exploitative Spanish empire, the isolating partnership with Cold War Russia, the destructive US military occupation, and the literary influences of Ernest Hemingway and Graham Greene, and you can quickly understand why little Cuba has a big personality the world round. At the heart of this proud land is Havana, the capital city. I could go on for quite a while describing this city but I’ll stick to one word, breathtaking. Your senses are bombarded. Lavish colonial architecture blends with 1930s casino structures and crumbling basic residences. Beautiful music lifts the air while the chitter-chatter from crowds fill in the quiet gaps. My camera was constantly clicking away. I could have explored the alleys and streets for days. Each turn brought a new visual experience. I really hope that the character of this city is preserved. It is so powerful and should be left alone by money hungry corporations. The variety offered is so authentic and this purity is what makes visitors vividly sense the city’s character.
Cuba, in general, offers incredible variety. This is also a huge reason why this country is a tourist haven. You may not think that Cuba has great variety given that all you see across the country is the face of “Che” Guevara, suggesting monotony. However, do not let the omnipresence of the star-embroidered beret wearing revolutionary fool you. Whether geographic diversity, a wealth of activities, extensive shopping, or endless culture, Cuba has it all. If you want a beach vacation, Cuba has it. If you want an adventure holiday, Cuba has it. If you want a romantic trip into the past, Cuba has it. Moreover, the trips are all real. This is very different from the cosmetic and highly contrived vacation options found in Jamaica or parts of Mexico . I believe that this authenticity is what is appealing about Fidel’s home. Somehow “MTV’s Havana Spring Break” doesn’t feel right in so many ways. Let’s hope that it never gets to that, never. Che would likely turn over in his grave should this type of Western sin and commercialism infect Cuban society. I am certain that the absence of the rowdy college crowd is what keeps the Canadian public infatuated with Cuba.
As a result of the political friction between Cuba and the United States, Cuba attracts its visitors from Canada and Europe . However, as I mentioned above, the lion’s share of tourism comes from Canada . Proximity is a key driver of this reality. However, attitude and relative quietness is probably another motivator. This is not to say that Cuba is a Prozac-like country. Not in the slightest. The nightlife is fantastic. Be it the famous Tropicana show or the many local nightclubs, Cuban people have a vibrant love of life. How could the heart of Salsa and the like not be a land that loves its nightlife! However, there is a slight difference between a room packed with well-dressed locals and (generally) polite visitors enjoying festive music and engaging in beautiful dance, with an over-sized club vibrating with progressive house music and 19 year olds puking in the corner. The rich Cuban social scene has been able to fend off the less admirable Western bar and club scenes. This unique nightlife experience further adds to Cuba’s appeal. This is not the winter version of Muskoka (cottage country slightly to the North of Toronto and a favored weekend destination in the summer). This is a real break from the environment in which Canadians live. This is likely why there is a true interest and true respect for this get-away tropical destination.
Returning back to Toronto , we were greeted with a record-breaking snow storm that left us buried in the apartment. Luckily we now were trained in the fine art of Mojito-making and had a few cigars and Salsa CD compilations. Old man Winter may have been raging outside, but the Cuban warmth still accompanied us in our little room. We danced, drank and chatted with healthy tans and huge smiles. In spirit, we were still with Sergio. We got hooked on Cuba and we’ll be back for our fix.
If you are interested in seeing my photos of Cuba, please visit - www.flickr.com/photos/frankmertens
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