London calling, again and again

Hello everyone,

I’ve just returned from an extensive business trip that took me to Hong Kong, Helsinki, Paris, London, and Boston. Aside from collecting air miles, eating incessantly, and losing track of time, I also was able to reflect on the different city cultures. Due to several trips to London of late, I have become drawn to this magical city. This trip reaffirmed my love for London. The reasons for my attraction to this historic capital is that it has such a strong character that you can actually feel it, it breeds creativity, and it caters to any taste and any passion.

I wrote about New York City a while back and mentioned that the character of that city was so apparent that you could not help but be consumed by it. I believe that London has this as well. To be very honest, I may not have said this before but I just had not been exposed to the English capital as much as now. The energy that consumes the tiny laneways and narrow streets that give this city such charm is firmly linked to its rich history. It has been a central global city for longer than most and it certainly lets you feel it. Whether it is its strong rituals, glorified landmarks, unique architecture, or bustling capitalism, you are regularly bombarded with a sense of dynamism, speed, and progress but equally with a sense of historic preservation and slow routine. This healthy conflict gives London a flair that no other city can truly project.

The friction of old and new and of progress and tradition spawns experimentation, rebellion, and bold expression. These are wonderful ingredients to fuel creativity and innovation. I don’t think that anyone could argue that London does not excel in this domain. Whether it is in the digital space, fashion, art, design, music, or marketing, London has leading firms, individuals, or organizations. Ultimately, this wealth of talent creates a consumption economy rich with options and constantly changing, evolving. A regular visitor can share in this lifestyle by going to various multi-service or themed restaurants or bars, tiny galleries with mind-bending work, side shops or markets filled with one-of-kind fashion masterpieces, or simply surf the web or mobile web at night to discover services that you thought only existed in fiction. I’ve been to bars in former public toilets where you sms song requests to the DJ, visited clubs that are in interlocking tunnels, played video games where the set was an actual park and you used your mobile phone to guide where you had to collect points and fight demons, and the list goes on. When exploring the streets, make sure to look around and you will see innovation and creativity all around you. Once you see it, feel it, you will be hooked. I find that this environment is truly what a creative soul should experience.

Pushed creative expression certainly creates new experiences, products, services, ways of living, discussions, cultures, sub-cultures, etc. Consequently, London offers something for everyone and perhaps even has a manifestation of every type of person. Here is where I find that London differs from New York City. The proximity to Europe and the international attention driven by not only its economic might but also its determination to attract the world’s eyes, make Londoners more politically engaged in global affairs. I may get some disagreement with this point, but on the whole I find that London is more plugged into world affairs than New York since its citizens on the whole are more international in the way the live their professional lives. As a result, the types of movements, be it in art, music etc that are born in London are remarkable and rooted, even if slightly, in more existential socio-political issues than movements in other creative hubs. What this does is that the creative end product or innovation has (perhaps) stronger meaning and potentially larger appeal. Therefore, no matter what your belief or conviction, your passion or lifestyle, you will find another like-minded individual in London.

Where you meet this like-minded soul mate may be a tough task. That is because London has countless venues for any type of income bracket, social class, religious persuasion, lifestyle choice, etc. Whether you choose a lovely lunch and stroll at Harrod’s to rub shoulders with high society, or an afternoon pizza at a trendy hole-in-the-wall at Brick Lane to live it up with London’s young hip crowd, it’s all possible. You may simply want a nice pint at one of London’s thousands of pubs, or a fancy cocktail a hotel bar. Maybe you would rather connect with your soul mate through a healthy shopping excursion. Here again, the decision is tough. Perhaps you would like to stroll along the ritzy streets of Soho or slug it out in Camden. Ahh the choices! Don’t you just love it!

London is truly a place of great choice, great history, incredible lifestyle, and a hot-spot of hungry talent. As a tourist, I can only recommend to not follow the tour guides. Do a bit of research and discover the world that surrounds your likes. I am sure that London has a community that caters to exactly what you want and that that community will show you something that you haven’t seen before.

Until next time.

Want the true Asian adventure holiday? Go to Cambodia

Hello everyone,
 
My travels throughout Asia have covered the spectrum of environments: developed and less developed societies, modern and traditional cities, spotless and filthy neighborhoods, kind and aggressive communities. Cambodia contains aspects of each these extremes. The country is a truly raw place. For those of you who want to have an authentic Asian experience, one void of excess tourism, Cambodia is among the few places left that can fulfill your wish. Three places are a must.
 
The destination that defines Cambodia is the city of Siem Reap and the surrounding temples. You will need to get a visa upon entry, before you pass customs. It is important to know that Cambodians like to joke around. Unfortunately, when you couple dry humor with imperfect English, you will likely feel more threatened than amused. Let me tell you, this miscommunication at immigration will spawn a bead or two of sweat. Once away from the authorities you will be able to roll with it.
 
Siem Reap is a very small town, nestled along a river, near a large fresh water lake. The bridges that cross the water and the architecture of the buildings reflect a French colonial presence. Combine this look with the lushness of a tropical environment and the neglect of a corrupt governmental system, and the net impression of the setting resembles the American Cajun south. Buried within the maze of small roads are countless cute and comfortable inns that offer surprising amenities at rock bottom prices. The other extreme is also available – Hotel Costes type establishments with unique Khmer touches (see - www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com). Many hotels are situated around the back-packer area, known as Pub St . Here you will find great little galleries, notably of photographers, and restaurants. As far as the local cuisine is concerned, Khmer food is actually not that spectacular. I was quite surprised at this because both neighbors, Thailand and Vietnam , have an extraordinary food culture.
 
The sole reason that one visits Siem Reap is to see the plethora of temples that are speckled around the outskirts of the city. The crown jewel is Angkor Wat, whose picture is the center piece of the Cambodian flag. The site is a photographer’s dream, especially during sun rise or sun set. The former grandness of the Khmer Empire is clearly apparent, as is the richness of the Khmer culture. Beyond Angkor Wat are other famous temples such as Ta Prohm and Bayon. Ta Prohm is a magical place. The jungle has regained its ownership of the land on which the temple was built. Large trees stand firmly on top of ancient ruins, spreading their roots throughout the hallways and rooms of the temple, like a mythological squid engulfing a navy vessel (see- www.flickr.com/photos /peterstuckings/sets/72057594073027419/ ). Bayon is equally breathtaking. This temple is renowned for its Buddhist inspired head sculptures. Much like the Mona Lisa, the eyes of the various heads follow you as you view them from different angles. As a photographer, I found this subject matter incredibly powerful and eerie. Each temple is impressive in its own way. Imagine what the French discovers felt when they stumbled upon these ruins many years ago. Colossal, architecturally advanced, intricately designed, and deep in the jungle - A true Indiana Jones experience.
 
However, you can easily get “templed out”. One rock structure blends into the next. At this point, Siem Reap offers many cultural diversions. To visit them, you have a variety of travel options: bicycle, motorbike, tuk-tuk, and car. By chance, I stumbled on a driver that was cop. He was a great guy, very timid, unassuming, and a sly womanizer. He also liked to sip a beer or two while driving me around, which worried me before I realized that he was a 6 year police veteran… well, even then it worried me. He was able to find all the bizarre sites as well as off-the-beaten-track nightlife spots. There are three places that I would recommend. The first is the landmine museum. Owned by a former Khmer military officer, the museum resembles more like the wrecking yard from Sanford and Son than a display of Cambodia’s recent history. The employees are all landmine victims. You will be escorted around the grounds, explained the different types of explosives, and shown stories related to their affect on Cambodian life – very humbling. The second place is little hut, tucked away on the grounds of a local pagoda, where you can find hand made shadow puppets. The artist, an older lady, is curious and full of life. Her energy and unique personality is reflected in the pieces she creates – I had to buy a pair. The final place to see is the stretch of road that connects the city of Siem Reap with the harbor on the banks of Tonle Sap , one of the biggest lakes in South East Asia. The road follows a river. On the banks of the river are countless huts from Vietnamese immigrants. The poverty is noteworthy. However, the community feel, the homeliness of the shoddy wooden huts, the cuteness of the primitive bridges linking both sides of the river, is emotionally riveting and photographically stimulating. It really feels authentic.
 
The second main destination in Cambodia is the capital Phnom Penh. To reach PP from Siem Reap, the best way to travel is by speed boat on lake Tonle Sap. However, beware of sun burn. The deck is very tempting and the breeze is deceptively cool. Half of the trip is on open water, the other half is along a river. The latter half is what makes the trip worthwhile; Cambodian coastal life with its floating villages, unique fishing boats, and inviting locals. The journey ends in the heart of Phnom Penh on the banks of the Tonle Sap River. Like many other South East Asian destinations, you are swarmed with local tuk-tuk drivers upon arrival. It’s good to read up on what is a fair fare. The Lonely Planet came in handy. Once en-route to my hotel I was able to absorb the cityscape. Much like Saigon, the colonial influence on this large city is very apparent: Ornate hotel buildings, Parisian-like walkways accessorized with intimate street lamps and benches, romantic riverside paths beautifully landscaped. The major difference between PP and Saigon is that there seems to have been little maintenance, let alone restoration, to the buildings. You truly feel transported to a past time. Here lies part of the magic of Cambodia. The history is almost alive. Garbage is everywhere, but it seems to help protect the old city from contemporary urban planning.
 
Many hotels line the river. This is where the action takes place. I naturally had to stay in one of the hotels. By chance, I stumbled on a pure gem – the Bougainvillier Hotel. I chose to stay in their best room, which was situated on the top floor. It had its own rooftop garden and an open-air bathroom. The actual sleeping area was a large open concept room with angled walls and a wooden canopy bed. I felt like a king, but paid what a mere jester could afford. I could also view the river banks from my room. At night, the boardwalk lights up, and a great night life emerges. Café after café fill the air with laughter, joyful conversation, and dated music. The seediness of the city is not hidden. Working women are plainly seen and mix with all types of crowds. While I saw tourist families, the city does not feel like it is suited for them. It’s simply too raw.
 
There are many interesting places to seek out in Phnom Penh . The expat community is NGO driven but has a predominantly bohemian feel. As such, there are many quaint arts and crafts shops, book stores, and markets. The two main tourist spots are the famous Khmer Rouge S-21 prison and the grounds where the prisoners were executed – The Killing Fields. This is worth taking a day to take in. Pol Pot’s regime ended around 1978. This was the last year that the prison was active. Therefore, it is truly recent history. The building is that of a school that the Khmer Rouge turned into a prison. It is not an old building, so it feels like a school that you may have gone to. Then you are told the facts: Over 17,000 prisoners came through this place, only 7 survived. On top of this information, you see remnants of the torture tools, shackles, beds, and blood stains. Like the closeness you feel to history when traveling through the city, you feel the closeness of the genocide when you walk through the prison. It is really harsh.
 
The final leg of my journey was to the ocean, at Sihanoukville. A bus will take you from Phnom Penh to the shore in just over 4 hours. The trip is uneventful. You arrive at a huge parking lot in the middle of the city and wonder whether there truly is water nearby or the travel books “pulled one over on you”. However, a five minute motorcycle ride brings you to a beach scene that is very Hippie inspired. This is not a beach for the neat and tidy travelers, those that frequent Thailand. This is a beach for the adventurer. The sand is fine and white but the beach is not groomed. Garbage is as apparent along the watery strip as it is along the moped filled roads of Phnom Penh. However, the back-packer lifestyle has a charm and you easily meet folks from all around the world. The location is gaining notoriety. While I was there, all the hostels and hotels were fully booked. I am guessing that within five years, the stature and popularity of the beaches in Sihanoukville will rival famous ones found in Thailand. Therefore, I suggest that you head there soon if you want to experience the “roughness”.
 
Raw, rough, that’s what makes Cambodia so authentic. I loved it.

Experience Authentic China… in Toronto

Hello everyone,

We frequently live in cities and fail to take advantage of our proximity to its treasures and unique characteristics. I have tried to do the opposite. While in New York City, I combed the boroughs on my bike. In Shanghai, I accepted every invitation to visit a different part of this great metropolis and wandered for hours each weekend through the many busy streets. However, I am now back in my native Toronto and find myself sticking to habitual behaviours, only visiting the neighbourhoods where my friends gather. Granted I am covering most of what the city has to offer simply because I have friends in different social circles. However, I haven’t bothered to look elsewhere. Thanks to my stay in Asia, I was curious about the Chinese community to the north of Toronto called Richmond Hill. More specifically, I wanted to visit the Pacific Mall - an authentic Chinese/ Hong Kong style mall. I discovered a hidden gem.

 The Chinese that live in foreign countries tend to create communities that strongly mimic the lifestyle services and environment infrastructure of their native home. Some China Towns are known the world over, such as the one in San Francisco or New York City. Visiting these districts makes you feel that you are in a completely different place. The street signs are different, the noise is constant, that smell is intense, and the roads are cluttered. Above all, the shopping is fantastic and generally very cheap. Well, that is if you can bargain! Generally, the shops are found along streets. However, the Toronto winter is long and cold and therefor not really conducive to outdoor window shopping. Therefore, the Chinese community imported their style of shopping mall: a multi-level warehouse-type building with isle after isle of tightly sandwiched vendor booths. I have seen this type of mall in Hong Kong and Shanghai. In those cities, their tight-packed construction is due to the simple fact that there is little space to build. As such, merchants need to be more efficient with real estate. Toronto clearly does not have this issue but the Chinese community has built this type of building, I suppose our of habit and comfort.

The first time that I entered the mall, I felt transported back to Asia. Beyond the fact that you will find it difficult to spot a Caucasian, the energy felt the same. The loud chatter of Cantonese (and occasionally Mandarin) filled the air as did the smell of oily delights. People walk slowly from booth to booth, frequenlty forgetting the personal space of others. The shop-keepers tried hard to hard sell you on the cheapest of goods. Above all, the variety was mind-blowing. I was in heaven.

The shopping experience, in my opinion, is far superior to that of your typical North American mall. Why? Quite simply, you are constantly visually stimulated since the product variety truly changes meter to meter. There is not time to get bored. Even the most appealing “gwai lo” (Cantonese slang for white person) malls do not have the allure of a shoe-box layout where entrepreneurialism reigns and one-off gems are the norm rather than the exception. Yes, fashion is abundant (granted more so for women than men), but so are electronics, accessories, fragrances, home furnishings, knick-knacks, software programs, and films. I frequently lose my girlfriend in this place because she gets pulled from one store to the next. The sheer volume of bags, shoes, clothes, and accessories will make a targeted trip turn into a multi-hour adventure. However, I don’t really care because I can explore the specialty shops that I love. 

One of the great discoveries in the Pacific Mall is the movie selection. While living in Asia, I became enamoured by the variety of films that were available at a few dollars a piece. Yes they were pirated. However, the huge selection and range of genres and global works allowed me to become a true film fanatic. I was able, and therefore encouraged, to be more adventurous with my viewing habits. Towards the end of my stay in Shanghai, I became so knowledgeable that I started seeking films by their production company. While this type of selection does not exist in the Pacific Mall, there are elements of this abundance. More importantly, I can explore movies with greater ease and enjoyment than at a rental place. Given that the Toronto winter naturally created a cocooning culture, the ability to have a place where you can purchase content that excessively nourishes this culture is brilliant.

A vigorous shopping session can be exhausting. Add the fact that you are rummaging through piles of product which is tightly packed together and you can understand that fatigue will naturally kick-in. Luckily there are stall after stall of noodle shops. If you are feeling classier, there is a large dim-sum restaurant. As with the shopping, the prices are fantastic. No bargaining here (at least I don’t think so!). From what I’ve noticed, the vendors all speak Cantonese and many of the booth names reflect Hong Kong origin. However, there are a few places that have dumplings from Mainland China. They taste the same as those tiny hole-in-the-wall places that I adored in Shanghai. Add some vinegar and chilli sauce and you are in for a real treat.

With the last dumpling eaten, your tongue caresses your lips for those last beads of noodle goodness. The noise of all the patrons to either side of you is acute but consistent. A hefty dose of chilli sauce has put you in a daze. You find yourself sitting back and appreciating the experience that you have just enjoyed over the past few hours. As you gaze on your table, you see an empty plate, a bag filled with films and other pleasures for your home. Under the table may lye a few bags with clothes and such. For a brief moment, you panic. “Why did I just spend so much money!” You quickly relax when you notice your wallet still occupied with the occasional cash bill. Then, with a content disposition you slowly walk to the door, bundle up to face the cold, and walk to your car. A wonderful day at the Pacific Mall is done. As you pull out of the parking lot, your mind begins to think, “I forgot to pick up that new George Clooney film. I guess I’ll be back again next week.” A smile curls gently on your face. You’re hooked.

Lady Liberty’s magical surroundings: New York City

Hello everyone,

The world has many exceptional cities that have strong and unique personalities, great cityscapes, unique citizens, and marvelous distractions. However, there is one city that, in my opinion, reigns supreme over all others - New York City. I was lucky enough to have lived in this amazing place for seven years. A recent trip to ”the city” reminded me that the Big Apple is indeed my home. The reason is that New York City is not just a city, it is a way of life, it is a culture, it is its own world.

The main difference between New York City and its global city rivals such as London, Paris, and Tokyo is that the Big Apple has little to no associations with its mother, the United States of America. London is till British no matter how many foreigners settle in the English capital. Paris will alway be French, even if Parisians are known to be a bit different than their siblings in other parts of the country. However, New Yorkers are not American, they are ONLY New Yorkers. The residents of this city have not adopted an American way of life, they have carved out their own way of life and have thrown it into New York City’s bag of identities. This is how the magic of the city is created.

There are a myriad of ways that this magic manifests itself but I will only talk about a few: the food culture, the lifestyle choices, the compact geography, the loud-and-proud cultural diversity, and the natural co-existence and integration of very different social classes.

No city in the world can boast the food choice that is available in New York City. You can find any cuisine that you desire. More importantly, you can find a truly authentic version. The reason for this fantastic offering is that New York City has countless nationalities that have decided to settle in this great metropolis. Each foreign settler has made a strong effort to manifest his national culture, a huge part of which is food. Some nationalities do this more regularly than others, notably the Asian and East Asian countries. Others, such as the European settlers, tend to disappear into the society, becoming completely integrated into their environment. In the Big Apple, each country still has its selection of “like at home” dining establishments. The Germans have several Kneipe-type venues such as Zum Schneider, the French have countless Bistrots like Pere Pinard, the Greeks have an entire area of amazing restaurants in Queens, the Italians have a whole area just north of Canal Street and hundreds of other hidden away dining gems such as Supper. If you want great Korean food, hit 32nd street, Brazilian food can be found a couple of streets higher, Indian food is down in the East Village, Swedish food will be a little deeper in the Lower East Side, and I can go on. What is even more wonderful is that you don’t have to spend a fair buck or sit in a restaurant to get mouth-watering authentic foreign dishes. Just wander into Spanish Harlem, around 117th and 3rd and you will encounter cart after cart cooking up some the best tacos you will ever enjoy. A little bit further North near the Cloisters you can pick up some fantastic Dominican chicken at quick-serve delis. The options are endless. New York City is truly the place to go to pamper your taste buds and give a rest to your diet.

The lifestyle choices of New Yorkers are as broad as the culinary options. My girlfriend made a comparison between Torontonians and New Yorkers that defines the New York lifestyle reality perfectly. She said, “In Toronto people try to be, but in New York people just are”. There are a few cities where this attitude is also true such as London, but I bet that they are not more than a hand full. More importantly, you see this individuality in almost all boroughs. Granted some neighborhoods have a higher concentration of these “individualists”, but New York seems to breed this type of person. A few rides in the subway and you will experience the full effect of individual expression. Yes, I am referring primarily to fashion but the visual is the window to a person’s broader world. From ghetto to ultra chic, passing by punk, metro, tribal, and jock, it’s all there. New blends and strains of the different “segments” are evident everywhere. Stores cater to this variety. Hit 5th Avenue to explore upper-end chain stores, Broadway south of Houston for more irreverent clothing lines, interior Soho for flagship fashion retail locations, independent urban culture designers in Brooklyn, etc. It really is true when people say, “if there is anything that you want, you will find it in New York”.

The tight New York geography also has a profound effect on the spirit of this city. Manhattan is not that big a place. Meanwhile, close to 2 million people live there. Now add the commuters. In any given day, millions of people stream in and out of the outer boroughs and nearby States such as New Jersey and Connecticut. This concentration of people creates a unique energy. Not all people will like this vibe. Tempers do flair and the pace of life is fast and furious. However, this tension somehow creates a vibrancy in the air that is held down by the towering buildings that surround a person at all times. You cannot escape New York. Once you are in the city, you will feel its heartbeat whether you want to or not. Many people find this intimacy suffocating, some even become consumed by the pressure and snap. The most unlikely people go nuts. I’ve heard of a well-groomed businessman standing in the middle of the intersection at 42nd and 6th directing traffic. You need to be able to harness the city’s energy. To do so, enjoy the few refuge areas such as the many parks, the wonderful restaurants, the coffee shops, the galleries, etc. More importantly, walk. The tight geography allows you to explore a great deal of the city on foot. I frequently walked from my office at 51st street all the way down to World Trade Center. The real beauty about walking in NYC is that you will see such variety every few blocks. Districts are small and change from one avenue to the next. The curious walker will be treated to a flurry of visuals triggering key moments in history, scenes from movies, passages from great books, etc. If you really want to get the full brunt of this energy and experience overload, fuel up with a few coffees to heighten your senses!

Another product of this tight geography is the strong desire to be heard while uniting with your tribe. The strong food culture is a result of this dynamic. However, the many nationalities find other ways to manifest their backgrounds. Just pay attention to the languages being spoken around you as you walk in any given neighborhood. The hallways of the United Nations seem to extend into the streets of Manhattan. French, Spanish, German, Russian, Italian, Greek, Mandarin, Cantonese, Korean, Japanese - all and so many others echo around you. In select areas you may not even hear that much English being spoken. Newcomers to the Big Apple somehow find their brethren immediately and bond. This collective soul spawns the desire for root seeding. As a result, many foreigners start up small specialty shops with products or services that reflect their country of origin. This entrepreneurialism fuels the elaborate shopping offerings of the city. Beyond consumerism, the various cultures voice their heritage through parades and festivals that seem to consume all weekends throughout the summer. When you think about all the activity, you quickly realize that the city energy that I just spoke about in the previous paragraph is also driving this cultural expression. Isn’t it interesting how all the characteristics of this city play off one another to form a unique aura!

The immigrant history, tight geography, and business sector diversity have created a unique mixture of classes that live side by side in forced harmony. I just spoke about the visual extremes that an alert walker could experience in New York. History plays a great part in this creation but so does class integration. Some middle-class residents have been living in select locations for generations while their neighborhoods have blossomed around them. The Lower East Side is a case in point. You would think that this meeting of worlds would cause friction that could lead to violence. This may well have been the case in the past. It is no longer. Why? Honestly, I am not sure. I can hypothesize, suggesting the Giuliani era and additional wealth. All that I can say for sure is that the friction does not manifest itself too frequently, but merely keeps the city on its toes. Take the blackout of a few years back as an example. There were fears that looting would prevail as it did during the blackout of the 70s. Nothing happened. Granted, 911 had happened only a few years prior. Nonetheless, I believe that Lady Liberty’s city has evolved so that its children are more used to one another.

Overall, New York City is simply a city unlike any on the planet. I encourage everyone to spend a part of their life in the Big Apple. The experiences will mark you for a lifetime. If travel is all that you can offer Gotham, then follow these simple instructions: explore all corners and alleys, look at the world above your head, savour the smells from dim or bright establishments, be mesmerized by the alluring lights from tiny to multi-story stores, wander the grungy and high-brow galleries, take cabs and subways, sip coffees and cosmopolitans, and see the landmarks and landfills. The reason is that the true New York City will not be found through a guide. The true New York City is different for each one of us. Therefore, be curious, have fun, and create your memory. Don’t let it pass away in a New York minute!

Cuba: Canada’s tropical secret

Hello everyone,

I have been back in Toronto for just over 6 months which has allowed me to reacclimatize myself to true “Canadianisms”. For starters we have the “cuisine”, such as hearty Poutine or greasy breakfasts with Peameal beacon. As soon as the winter hit, I was reminded that these types of heavy foods are a necessity to stay warm in this disturbingly cold environment. Then we have the flag-bearing travelers. During the summer I met several back-packers who proudly spoke of their journeys throughout Europe and the warm welcome that they received due, according to them, in great part to them being identified as Canadians. They probably didn’t realize that their ghostly complexion was also a bit of a giveaway. Finally, I have been reintroduced to hockey fanaticism. The love for the game is so severe above the 49 th Parallel that droves of people will religiously pour into a packed arena to watch a losing and overpaid team. Why Torontonians continue to support the Leafs is beyond me. However, the purpose of this write-up is not to talk about Canadian secrets found in the Great White North. I want to talk about Canada’s tropical secret – Cuba .

Cuba is one of Canadians’ favored sun destinations. Flights from multiple airlines leave daily from big city airports. Ads on billboards for Cuban resorts and package deals pepper Canadian city skylines. Many of my friends have visited this wonderful country and therefore when the menacing Canadian Winter appeared in October, I decided that I would see what this “Cuban craze” was all about. According to travel tours, Canadians make up the largest percentage of visitors to Cuba. I quickly realized why: heat, compassion, culture, variety, and above all, it’s a place that the Canadians call truly call theirs.

We landed in Varadero in the early evening and were greeted by a wall of comforting heat. The winter shivers were quickly soothed by an all-encompassing warm blanket of tropical air. Crazy tourists immediately shed most of their clothes to reveal pasty shades of white skin tones that only Canadians, and perhaps the occasional Brit, can somehow create. The sight was comedic. If any of the tour buses should burn out their headlights, they need only stick two shirtless Canadians on the front of the bus and the road would be easily lit up. But I don’t want to talk about the biological benefits of the Canuck complexion, I want to talk about the Cuban heat. The sun seemed to have a liking for this large island. She brightly sprayed the beach with her rays, bronzing our skin, warming our hearts, and lightening our moods. The environment was equally in harmony with the sun. The ocean sparkled in a light, somewhat turquoise, blue and the trees and bushes proudly displayed a vibrant green. As you navigate through this wonderful warmth you cannot help but appreciate your environment and those around you. I believe that that Cubans have long recognized the positive energy that their cherished sun offers. They seem to show their appreciation to the bright lady in the sky by extending personal warmth to their fellow man (and woman) in a way that few nationalities do.

A kinder people than the Cubans you will rarely find. You are confronted with their genuine warmth almost from the point you walk off the plane. I recall being greeted with a tray of Crystal beer as we got on to the bus that would take us to our resort… Wait a minute. I think I’ve figured something out! Perhaps the laid back attitude of visitors to the island is a result of a carefully executed plan of partial sedation caused by a regular infusion of alcohol. Those tricky &^%# !!! Joking aside, I was taken back by how lovely the people were. For a people who are generally quite poor, their attitude to the world around them was inspiring. You may think that this is due to the fact that they want our money. Sure, the service industry is important and therefore highly developed. Nonetheless, I have visited many countries with equally vital tourist industries and the people did not have the Cuban disposition. A case in point was a server at our resort. His name was Sergio. His job was to walk along the beach and bring guests drinks. As we were in an all-inclusive resort, he was not selling drinks which meant that tips were not to be expected. Regardless, he was always covering the entire beach at a healthy pace and never once failed to greet you without an ear-to-ear smile and jovial conversation. We could not help but feel upbeat after seeing Sergio. However, Cuba has many Sergios. Whether it was our tour guide to Havana, our maid at the hotel, the bartender at our local watering hole, our cab drivers, or the like, a sweet authenticity prevailed. Where were all the Tony Montanas? I guess the Sergios asked them to move to Miami!

It is actually quite interesting that a poor and somewhat isolated Caribbean island has the depth of history and global political attention that Cuba has. The cultural richness found in Cuba is noteworthy. Unfortunately, we were not able to see much because Cuba is quite a large island, larger (I think) than Florida. Therefore, we only visited Varadero and its surrounding towns, and Havana . I would have loved to visit Vinales with its spectacular limestone cliffs, lush green tobacco fields, and expansive network of caves. However, the ride from Varadero would have been around 5 hours. A bit much for a day trip! Oh well, next time. And yes, Cuba definitely deserves more than a week. A country that almost brought the world to nuclear war certainly has something to say. But well before The Cuban Missile Crisis, this island has been at the center of much international attention. Just a look at the faces of the Cubans and one immediately notices the influence of the Spanish, Dutch, English, Africans (slaves), and Chinese. Yes, all these nationalities have settled in Cuba at some point, diversifying the makeup of the Cuban people. Add the criminal (and financial) element of the mafia, the exploitative Spanish empire, the isolating partnership with Cold War Russia, the destructive US military occupation, and the literary influences of Ernest Hemingway and Graham Greene, and you can quickly understand why little Cuba has a big personality the world round. At the heart of this proud land is Havana, the capital city. I could go on for quite a while describing this city but I’ll stick to one word, breathtaking. Your senses are bombarded. Lavish colonial architecture blends with 1930s casino structures and crumbling basic residences. Beautiful music lifts the air while the chitter-chatter from crowds fill in the quiet gaps. My camera was constantly clicking away. I could have explored the alleys and streets for days. Each turn brought a new visual experience. I really hope that the character of this city is preserved. It is so powerful and should be left alone by money hungry corporations. The variety offered is so authentic and this purity is what makes visitors vividly sense the city’s character.

Cuba, in general, offers incredible variety. This is also a huge reason why this country is a tourist haven. You may not think that Cuba has great variety given that all you see across the country is the face of “Che” Guevara, suggesting monotony. However, do not let the omnipresence of the star-embroidered beret wearing revolutionary fool you. Whether geographic diversity, a wealth of activities, extensive shopping, or endless culture, Cuba has it all. If you want a beach vacation, Cuba has it. If you want an adventure holiday, Cuba has it. If you want a romantic trip into the past, Cuba has it. Moreover, the trips are all real. This is very different from the cosmetic and highly contrived vacation options found in Jamaica or parts of Mexico . I believe that this authenticity is what is appealing about Fidel’s home. Somehow “MTV’s Havana Spring Break” doesn’t feel right in so many ways. Let’s hope that it never gets to that, never. Che would likely turn over in his grave should this type of Western sin and commercialism infect Cuban society. I am certain that the absence of the rowdy college crowd is what keeps the Canadian public infatuated with Cuba.

As a result of the political friction between Cuba and the United States, Cuba attracts its visitors from Canada and Europe . However, as I mentioned above, the lion’s share of tourism comes from Canada . Proximity is a key driver of this reality. However, attitude and relative quietness is probably another motivator. This is not to say that Cuba is a Prozac-like country. Not in the slightest. The nightlife is fantastic. Be it the famous Tropicana show or the many local nightclubs, Cuban people have a vibrant love of life. How could the heart of Salsa and the like not be a land that loves its nightlife! However, there is a slight difference between a room packed with well-dressed locals and (generally) polite visitors enjoying festive music and engaging in beautiful dance, with an over-sized club vibrating with progressive house music and 19 year olds puking in the corner. The rich Cuban social scene has been able to fend off the less admirable Western bar and club scenes. This unique nightlife experience further adds to Cuba’s appeal. This is not the winter version of Muskoka (cottage country slightly to the North of Toronto and a favored weekend destination in the summer). This is a real break from the environment in which Canadians live. This is likely why there is a true interest and true respect for this get-away tropical destination.

Returning back to Toronto , we were greeted with a record-breaking snow storm that left us buried in the apartment. Luckily we now were trained in the fine art of Mojito-making and had a few cigars and Salsa CD compilations. Old man Winter may have been raging outside, but the Cuban warmth still accompanied us in our little room. We danced, drank and chatted with healthy tans and huge smiles. In spirit, we were still with Sergio. We got hooked on Cuba and we’ll be back for our fix.

If you are interested in seeing my photos of Cuba, please visit - www.flickr.com/photos/frankmertens